To
slake the thirst of British troops and colonists in India, in the 1790s
George Hodgson created a beer so strong that it survived the three-
to five-month ocean journey from London to Bombay and Calcutta.
Unlike
the typical sweetish, malty British ales of the time, Hodgson's brew
was protected from spoilage by its high-alcohol content and resins from
the abundance of hops used in the brewing process.
Today
this style of beer, called India Pale Ale (IPA), is winning fans for
its fruity, hoppy and pleasantly bitter taste. The significant alcohol
levels are balanced by the bitterness and a malt character that is more
subdued than many non-India pale ales.
Contemporary
American IPAs are crisp and refreshing, yet more complex than most ales
and lagers -- ideal for late-spring drinking, when temperatures head
upward yet haven't reached searing. One of the finest examples of American
IPA is Bear Republic Brewing Co.'s Racer 5, made in Healdsburg by the
Norgrove family.
Richard
G. Norgrove is the master brewer at "the Bear," a brewery/brewpub
that opened in 1996 just off the Healdsburg plaza. Ricardo's Red Rocket
Ale is Norgrove's flagship brew, but he says that Racer 5 is now the
top seller.
"Racer
5 was pretty cutting-edge when it came out," says Norgrove, an
admitted "hop head" who liberally uses the female flower of
the hop vine (Humulus lupulus) in many of his beers.
Most
IPAs fall in the 40 to 60 range on the International Bittering Unit
(IBU) scale, yet Norgrove -- also a volunteer fireman and driving instructor
who loves a challenge -- says Racer 5 IPA has a heady 84 IBUs, along
with a strong 7 percent alcohol content.
Racer
5 is racy stuff, yet it's supremely balanced in its nose-prickling hops
aroma, bitter (but not astringent) palate and alcohol content (Budweiser,
by comparison, is 5 percent alcohol by volume). Notes of floral grassiness,
citrus, spice, mineral and creamy malt give this medium-bodied, golden-hued
beer great complexity.
Norgrove
says Racer 5's success is due to consistency from batch to batch; use
of American grains and "the three C's' - Cascade, Chinook and Columbus
hops -- from Yakima Valley in Washington state, and fermentation using
a house yeast strain that originated at Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. in
Chico.
Racer
5 IPA is available throughout the Bay Area and in 22 states, on tap
and in 22-ounce bottles ($2.50). By the end of the month, the beer will
also be available in 12-ounce-bottle six-packs ($7.49).
